Japan Travel Blog
Introduction (10/07/2024)
My recent trip to Japan is finished. Sleep has been recuperated. Reality has returned. But I shall never forget how spectacular it was - a once in a lifetime opportunity that I recommend for anyone (and it isn't nearly as expensive as you may think.)
I travelled with my good friend, Tommy, and we had a blast experiencing all that Japan has to offer. Our two week stay took us from Tokyo, to Lake Kawaguchi at Mount Fuji, to Kyoto, to Osaka, with day-trips to Yokohama (the bustling port where Tenshi and Hamata of The Falling Sun boarded the Unmei in the Spring of 1910) and Hiroshima along the way. Every day was packed with culture and learning, and whilst this was a holiday, I was foraging information to enhance Tenshi and Hamata's backstories and upbringing.
This, my Japan Travel Blog, will be broken into instalments and will serve both as a guide for those thinking of travelling to the Land of the Rising Sun, and as documentation of my personal experiences, with links made to The Falling Sun where appropriate.
Thank you for reading, and enjoy!
Quick Tips (10/07/2024)
Plan -
This might seem an obvious piece of advice, but it is the most important. Things move at a fast pace in the cities and the sheer abundance of things to do mean that without a plan you might become overwhelmed, doomed to wander the vast streets.
Travel requires necessary planning, especially if you desire to city hop as we did. More on this now!
Trains -
The most common form of transport in the cities. Japan has six major rail companies and many other smaller ones, divided into countless lines that can look convoluted to a tourist - so, again, it is best to know in advance which station you wish to travel to and where to travel from.
The trains in Japan are always on time - and they're extremely cheap, too! A ticket to Yokohama from Asakusa Station in Tokyo cost us 600yen each (that's £3 for a 45 minute train journey.)
Tickets must be bought at ticket machines within the stations. These have English language options and are easy to master after the first time. When selecting the train you want, some machines allow you to input the station, whilst others require you to look at the map overhead and select the corresponding fare.
Ticket machines and fare board in a Japanese train station
This link shows you how to use the ticket machines.
The Shinkansen (bullet train) is best for long journeys, but it is expensive. We used the Shinkansen when travelling from Mishima to Kyoto and the day-trip to Hiroshima. Shinkansen are clean, comfortable, and extremely fast. You can save money by booking tickets through third-party services, such as Klook. NOTE: You must use a blue ticket machine to collect these tickets using the QR code (other Shinkansen machines do not work.)
Buses -
Trains can't get you everywhere - especially in remote places like Oishi Park at Mount Fuji. Use buses or coaches in these instances. Buses operate a tap-on, tap-off system (NOTE: Mastercard does not work - you will need to pay in cash when you get off: go to the driver and say genkin de shirahaemasuka? "Can I pay with cash?")
Coaches can be booked online, which I recommend because they are busy.
Know some Japanese -
English is not widely spoken in Japan, and a little Japanese will get you a long way. I have been attempting to learn Japanese for a year, but upon arrival I discovered that most of what I had learnt was redundant.
Here are some phrases worth learning:
Konnichiwa – hello
Ohayou – good morning
Konbanwa – good evening
Hajimemashite – nice to meet you
Arigatou gozaimasu – thank you very much
Gomen nasai – sorry
Sayounara – goodbye
Iterasshai – take care
Onegaishimasu or Kudasai - please
Kore wa ikuradesuka – how much is this?
Eigo ga hanasemasuka – do you speak English?
Yukkuri hanashitekudasai – speak slowly please
Sore o kurikaeshite kuremasenka – could you repeat that?
Wakarimasen – I don’t understand
[place] wa dokodesuka – where is…?
Ogenkidesuka – how are you?
Watashi wa irgirisu ni sundeimasu – I live in England
Wataashiwa Irgirisujin desu – I am English
Checkuin shitai nodesuga – I would like to check-in
Most signs and tannoy systems do have English, however.
Have cash -
Japan is a cash dominated society. You will need cash for vending machines and ticket machines, and it is the preferred payment choice in shops and restaurants. I advise getting your cash before travelling, from a Post-Office or bureau de exchange, but (as I discovered) you will need to order Japanese yen in advance, as they don't stock it.
DO NOT PURCHASE YOUR YEN AT THE AIRPORT (as I was forced to do because I hadn't bought any in time) - YOU WILL GET RIPPED OFF (bad exchange rates.)
You should ask for 1000yen notes only, as everything is cheap and a 10,000yen note is not necessary. Keep your change - 100yen can get you a bottle of water (50p.)
Card can be used, but some places don't accept Mastercard (like buses.) If you need to withdraw money use the 7/11 ATMs, which can be found everywhere. FamilyMart ones have an aversion to international cards.
Data -
Have a phone data deal to ensure that you don't incur hidden fees or, alternatively, buy a prepaid Japanese sim card (NOTE: these don't work on older phone models.) Data might just save you when you need an emergency map or need to check a train. Most places have WiFi, but it cannot be guaranteed.
Food -
Japanese cuisine is the best in the world, and there is a diverse range of delicious meals on offer - unless you are vegetarian. You might have to rely on edamame and pizza as Tommy did.
Booking -
For hotels, I used Booking.com (just make sure you don't accidentally book a shared dormitory as I did - more on that later.)
Museums and excursions can either be booked directly through their websites or third parties like Klook or Viator. If you have reservations about third parties, I will say that I used both of the aforementioned companies and had no problems.
Japan also has a unique system for online booking in that most of the time you cannot book more than one month in advance (some, this is a week.) For the Studio Ghibli Museum in Tokyo, for example, I missed out on tickets because the week sold out instantly when they released them at 9:00am JST (that's 1:00am here.) So, if you want tickets you'll have to get up early.
NEXT TIME I will discuss our itinerary in depth.
You can download the itinerary here.
Observations & Idiosyncrasies (11/07/2024)
I kept a list of observations regarding Japan and our own unique mannerisms. They should give you a snapshot into the experience - here they are:
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Clean - but there are hardly any bins or bin-collectors - it's a mystery where their rubbish goes
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Quiet - Tokyo was surprisingly quiet - no-one talked in the streets; the cars were silent - it is rude to talk loudly in public places
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Vending machines - they are everywhere!
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Tommy scouting the vending machines up the side of a mountain at Lake Kawaguchi
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Kakigori - shaved ice (it's kind of like a slushy; refreshing in the heat) - we ate many of these
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Shishimai - this is a lucky dragon - if you are bitten on the head, you are given good fortune (see the picture)
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Busy trains - packed in like sardines
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Seeing a Sumo Wrestler on the train - I sadly didn't get a picture
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Traffic cones - more prominent than the vending machines - can even be found on a remote mountain path
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Ochazuke breakfast - traditional Japanese breakfast - delicious
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Geishas - wandering around the temples
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Uniforms - everyone in Japan wears a smart, official-looking uniform: gloved taxi-drivers, builders, security guards, bus drivers.
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Drops, drops, drops - Tommy's term for the sweets he bought at the National Modern Art Museum Tokyo.
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Pachinko - a gambling game kind of like pinball but also nothing like pinball - we were terrible and kept getting shouted at by the machine
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Tommy eating wasabi
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Playing Risk - I won both games
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Train station jingles - uplifting music plays every time a train arrives
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Mount Fuji is beautiful
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Saying arigatou gozaimasu or itadakemasu every five minutes - but then forgetting when it's actually necessary
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Eating octopus - I didn't realise what I had ordered
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Climbing a mountain - in Kyoto
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Getting lost when climbing down the mountain
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Salvador Dali is not Pablo Escobar - you'll have to ask Tommy about that one
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Being mistaken for a fluent Japanese speaker - the one time I get my Japanese right and they reply at a million miles an hour
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Getting served dinner by a robot - stumbled into a cool restaurant at the Dotonbori (Osaka) and still don't know what it's called
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Opera singers and self-playing pianos - at Kawaguchiko Music Forest Museum
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Arcades - Mario Kart & a 100yen (50p) beat-'em-up that lasted twenty minutes and which we completed
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Cycling in a dangerous tunnel - 2.7km uphill
Me and Tommy cycling in the aforementioned dangerous tunnel
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Turning around from the tunnel
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Cycling round Lake Kawaguchi
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Cycling on a dangerous bridge
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Finally getting home safe
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Despicable Me 4 Advert in Japanese - "nani!?"
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Nearly missing the Shinkansen - that's why you go to the blue ticket machines
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Matcha (green tea) flavoured everything - iced tea, ice-cream, kit-kats, mochi, chocolate, crisps, potato croquettes...
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Traffic Lights take forever to change
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Toilet settings - in Japan, there are futuristic toilets where you can spray clean your nether regions - no, I did not give it a try (Tommy did)
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And finally, me being twice the height of everyone
Day One - 25th June (12/07/2024)
Arriving -
After a thirteen hour flight from London, Heathrow, we arrived in The Land of the Rising Sun. Our first obstacle was to fill out a customs form by hand. This introduced us to the efficient but rigorous Japanese society. We then had to use the train for the first time, to get from Haneda (Tokyo) Airport to Ueno Station. After being shown how to use the machine by a friendly airport worker, we were on our way (and now self-proclaimed experts of the train ticketing machines.)
Ueno Zoo -
Our first activity. At thirty-five hectares, thirty-degree weather, us being tired from the journey, it was an oversight on my behalf that we should wander Japan's flagship zoo with our suitcases - no wonder we didn't finish it all. (NOTE: go to the hotel - regardless of the check-in time - and leave your bags to their safe-keeping.) We subsequently did a highlights tour, but I recommend spending three to four hours there.
We first tried kakigori at Ueno Zoo, a romance that saw Tommy have kakigori every day for the four nights we spent in Tokyo.
Ueno Zoo is home to 300 different species of animal. We saw everything from a Lemur to a Giant Galapagos Tortoise. The highlight, however, was seeing a panda. Ueno Zoo is famous for its pandas, and there was much panda related merchandise available to purchase.
A Panda at Ueno Zoo, Tokyo
Dinner -
We checked in at the hotel and then searched for somewhere to eat. This search did not last long, for we went to the first restaurant that we saw. A Cuban/Reggae bar that we thought was an antique shop. I wanted to try something local - seeing as Cuba is nearly 8000 miles from Japan, this was a hard feat. But a successful one. I had pork fried with ginger; served with rice. From that moment on, I was in love with the craftsmanship of Japanese chefs.
Senso-Ji -
Walking off our meal revealed Senso-Ji - our first visit to a Japanese temple. Senso-ji is the oldest temple in Tokyo. You can read about its history by clicking the link on the subtitle.
Tommy and I had our fortune's told. Let's just say that my fortune was much better than his.
Finally, we slept off our jetlag in a well-earned rest.
Day Two - 26th June (15/07/2024)
Imperial Palace -
In 1868, the new Emperor, the Tokugawa Shogunate, moved the capital of Japan from Kyoto to Edo, which he renamed Tokyo. There has been a castle on the sight since 1437, but it has undergone many reconstructions. The current palace was built in 1968, after it was destroyed in a bombing raid during World War Two.
Tours of the palace grounds can be booked online for free, but we didn't manage to participate as they sold out extremely quickly. Like the Studio Ghibli Museum, tour tickets should be booked at 1am when they are released (9:00am JT.) (NOTE: tickets are released on the first of every month for that month.) They can be booked here. If you fail to book online, two slots are saved at 9:30 & 13:00 for those at the Palace in person. These are for the first 100 people. The queue can be found outside the main gate for those brave enough to wait in the scorching sun.
The expansive gardens are free and open to the public. Take a gander and experience your own shinrin-yoku, forest-bathing: a meditative practice of walking through nature and letting its sounds and sights wash over you.
The National Museum of Modern Art Tokyo -
Experienced the Trio collection - an exhibition of artworks from Tokyo, Paris, and Osaka. This is a worthwhile visit even if you aren't an art enthusiast. You will learn about the history of Japan and Japanese art, and its connection to an avant-garde France. It is located ten minutes from the north gardens of the Imperial Palace.
Homage to the Square, Josef Albers - this painting (to me) invokes The Falling Sun motif, sunset
Team Lab Borderless -
We took an Uber here due to its distance from the MOMA (and that we were running late.) Despite extensive train and bus services, sometimes a taxi is necessary. In Japanese taxis, the rear doors open and close by themselves (so don't try to shut them or the driver will reprimand you.) Of the three taxis we took, the drivers were competent (I'm in Italy as I write this, and the drivers here are mental) and didn't overcharge.
Team Lab Borderless is a massive, interactive museum that uses light, glass, and music to tell stories and create illusions that you can easily get lost in.
Highlights include a room of orbs, a stalactite cave where you can control the lighting, watching animals dance across the walls, and a section where you can experience being miniaturised, walking through grass, and then being amongst the flowers.
When booking, you must select an entrance time (but you can stay for as long as you want - we spent nearly two hours looking around.) This could be the most expensive museum of your trip (at approximately £20 per ticket), but it is definitely worth it.
The museum can be quite hard to find as it is in the basement of a shopping mall - building C of the Azabudai Hills. This is a perfect place for shopping and then getting dinner. Or buying honey (as I did.)
Tokyo Tower -
Our evening was spent at Tokyo Tower, a fifteen minute walk from the Azabudai Hills. Here, you get a panoramic view of the entirety of Tokyo. A brilliant opportunity for photographs. We didn't stay long, however, as I - ironically - have a fear of heights.
Our luck was in as we found kakigori right outside the tower - and even better, we sat in a red, London double-decker to eat it! A great end to the day.
Day Three - 27th June (15/07/2024)
Yokohama -
One-hundred and fourteen years ago, The Falling Sun characters, Tenshi and Hamata, set sail aboard the Unmei from Yokohama Port. Their destination: The Land of Opportunity. It was a great privilege to stand where my characters had, and it allowed me to really imagine what that moment would have been like for them: standing on the shore, looking east to the Californian coast, so full of wonder and of hope.
Yokohama was the place where Japan first opened its shores to the West. In 1859, after numerous visits and negotiations with the American Commodore, Matthew Perry, who landed in Japan in 1853, the Tokugawa Shogunate decided that the best way for Japan to adapt and not become a colony was to trade with Western countries. Subsequently, Yokohama grew into a bustling port, advanced by the industrialisation of the Meiji Period. Its transformation from fishing village to urban port inspired the transition of the fictional Aisho Delta in The Falling Sun.
Yokohama is an easy day-trip from Tokyo. We took the train from Asakusa Station to Yokohama station, but other stations will go there. (NOTE: Yokohama station is the main destination, but it is a forty minute walk from the port and Chinatown, so I advise taking the subway or taxi from the station. We walked and almost died in the heat.)
Red Brick Warehouse, Yokohama
Japan Coast Guard Museum -
In 2001, a North Korean spy-boat was captured in Japanese territorial waters. This museum displays the boat and explains the story behind it. Entry is free, so it's worth a visit if you have thirty minutes or so to spare.
Yokohama Chinatown -
Japan's largest Chinatown was born from the various immigrants and traders who flocked to the burgeoning port after Japan opened to the West. It started off as small stalls selling items straight from the ships, and restaurants which fed the sailors and workers as they passed through. Today, there are more businesses than residents.
Ranging from trinket stores, arcades, bars, to bakeries, Yokohama Chinatown offers an extensive range and is the one place that you must visit if going to Yokohama. A great place for lunch or dinner. I recommend doing a bar/restaurant crawl, as there are so many snacks to try - and at reasonable prices, too.
Day Four - 28th June (16/07/2024)
A torrential downpour fell all day. We bought umbrellas from a local shop and then investigated the markets and shopping district fifteen minutes from our hotel.
Weather -
June to July is the rainy season in the majority of Japan (particularly Kyoto.) We were fortunate that this was the only tumultuous day. There was drizzle on two other occasions, but that was no worse than the weather in England. It was hot and humid every day (lows of 28 degrees celsius; highs of 35.)
You will want to pack a rain coat and umbrella (unless you wish to purchase one as we did - 800yen/£4.) Otherwise, bring summer clothes. I brought some jumpers just in case, but I never wore them. Even on a wet day, the weather is toasty.
We watched a show in the evening. Male and female actors, dressed in their yukata and kimono, told an anthology through dance and music. There is no speaking, making the performance accessible - and the power of their silent storytelling is amazing. It combined both traditional and contemporary Japanese performance styles - from Noh and Kabuki, to things that wouldn't seem out of place in an anime. I left reminded of the universality of storytelling and of theatre.
The actors were friendly and come round the tables and talk to you before the show. They will also take photographs with you - free of charge! It was here that I was bitten on the head by shishimai and was given good luck. (NOTE: you must buy a ticket when inside the location - everything is ordered on your phone by a QR code.) You can purchase snacks and drinks to enjoy whilst watching the show.
If you are in the Asakusa area and want to watch, please note that the location is hard to find. Google maps does not recognise it as a place unless you enter the address. The easiest way to find it would be to search for the Asakusa Don Quijote department store, as the theatre is on the same street (about a three minute walk.) Keep your eyes peeled for a sign outside the bar.
I recommend watching a show in Japan, whether that be this one or a trip to the many theatres. If you want to experience traditional Japanese practices, there are various shows that perform tea ceremonies, geisha dances, karate routines, and samurai battles.
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Tommy and I dressed in yukata
Night Life -
The show was located in the main thoroughfare of Asakusa. Bars, restaurants, department stores, arcades, and - most importantly - pachinko. Japanese cities are fun and excessive at night. This is because of the omote-ura practice and work-hard, play-hard mentality. The omote is the "public face". The ura is the "private face", for the evening at bars or with family. They know how to let off steam and party after a monotonous day at work.
As a result, Japanese cities (particularly Osaka, as we discovered) are packed with arcades open until late. Japan is the home of the arcade, and it shows. Try your hand at a classic beat-'em-up or get frustrated with the claw-machines (which are no better than the ones in the UK for dropping whatever you pick up.)
We didn't got to any nightclubs, so I can't offer advice in this regard, but I can say that the streets felt safe. Obviously we were two adult males, but Japan has a low crime rate, is clean, and we saw numerous all-female groups out late at night.
Named after the fictional intrepid adventurer (with a spelling variation), Don Quijote is a department store chain home to everything. They also have tax-free check-outs (but this cannot be redeemed for alcohol.) A department store like this is the perfect place to purchase gifts or get some cheap alcohol to take back to the hotel.
Day Five - 29th June (20/07/2024)
Travelling to Kawaguchiko -
Be aware that some days of your trip will be dominated by travel. Moving from Tokyo to Mount Fuji is such a time, for there are no trains - you must rely on buses and coaches. The area around Mount Fuji is called Fujigoku, meaning Fuji Five Lakes, as there are - you guessed it - five lakes. I chose Lake Kawaguchi as it was on the East side of Mount Fuji; therefore, it was closer to Tokyo, and because Oishi Park is said to have the best views (they were spectacular.)
The Fujikyuko Express Bus is the only way to reach the area from Tokyo, starting at Shinjuku Bus Station. Despite its website's claim, the online booking system doesn't work. Whenever you input your card details to pay, it says that the card isn't valid (I tried with various cards and it still failed.) You will have to purchase tickets at Shinjuku Bus Station. They sell out quickly, so I recommend buying them early for a later time (the afternoon, for example) and then explore Shinjuku or get some lunch (as we did.)
The coach will only take you as far as Kawaguchiko Bus Station, so you will need to catch a local bus to the resorts and villages orbiting Lake Kawaguchi.
Oishi Park -
I chose Oishi Park, located on the north shore of Lake Kawaguchi and offering stunning views of Mount Fuji to the West (when it isn't foggy.) Oishi Park is relatively quiet, which makes it a great nature retreat. There is a shop that sells essentials and food, and a community centre where you can book blueberry picking tours, but there are no restaurants. You will have to eat at your hostel, go to the shop, or cycle to the next town.
Aisho Delta in The Falling Sun also takes inspiration from small, traditional villages like Oishi Park. The rice farms, the wildlife, the shrines, and the watchful eye of the benevolent Mount Fuji are all qualities of Aisho Delta before the Meiji restoration industrialised it (like Yokohama.)
Rice paddy in Oishi Park
Finding Somewhere to Stay -
Hotels are rare in Fujigoku. You will most likely end up booking a hostel. This is because the area is full of people who only stay for a night before climbing Mount Fuji. Most hostels have shared dormitories, which is an exciting adventure to meet new people. Just make sure you know what you are booking before you get a big surprise when you arrive (as we did: I didn't realise I'd booked us a shared dorm - we slept in small rectangular pods which reminded me of the Inside Number Nine episode, La Couchette.)
Day Six - 30th June (20/07/2024)
The climbing season at Mount Fuji begins on July 1st (which we just missed.) You will need to book a climbing slot and a hostel nearer to the Fifth Station. You can climb before July 1st, but the buses are sporadic (and the time-frame was too complicated even for me to plan.) So, I cannot offer advice on how to climb Mount Fuji, but this website can.
If, however, you aren't much of a hiker and prefer cycling, this is the section for you.
We rented bikes from our hostel and decided to ride round the entirety of Lake Kawaguchi - well, after my lapse in geography made us cycle up a mountain and into the terrifying tunnel mentioned earlier (it was a fun ride down, though.)
The ride round Lake Kawaguchi took us four hours (but we did cut a section by riding over a bridge, as well as stopping at various museums, shops, and cafes along the way.) I definitely recommend cycling this route, as you can discover the secrets of every town - like the Kawaguchiko Music Forest Museum.
We already knew this museum existed, as a man winding a music box at Oishi Park advertised it, so we were intrigued to visit. This place is a hidden gem. It mixes peaceful gardens and music shows, ensuring a relaxing time. It was described as Little Europe because of the costumes, design, and self-playing instruments manufactured in Switzerland, Germany, and Belgium.
Did I also mention that there are opera singers?
Be sure to stop at one of the many parks on the shore of Lake Kawaguchi and have an icecream or coffee whilst admiring Mount Fuji. Get those cameras ready!
Day Seven - 1st July (21/07/2024)
Another day of travelling.
Kawaguchiko Station to Mishima - this express bus can be booked online.
Shinkansen -
At Mishima, we rode the Shinkansen (bullet train) for the first time, to Kyoto. Racing at a speed of 200mph, and always running on time, the shinkansen is a marvel of engineering. Only the Chinese and Indonesian bullet train systems travel faster. Despite the speed, the ride is incredibly comfortable. The distance between Mishima and Kyoto is 366km. The train ride is just over two hours - by car, that would be five and a half hours (assuming an average speed of 40mph.)
Remarkably, Japan has used the bullet train since 1964. It was the fastest train in the world, and has since had various iterations to improve speed and comfort.
Did you know that once the shinkansen reaches a certain speed, the wheels retract from the rail, meaning that the train relies on the electrostatic forces between the magnets of the rail, the train, and its sheer speed. The wheels return when slowing down.
Luggage -
Passengers are allowed one large, 20kg suitcase on the shinkansen. Bear this in mind when packing in England, as British Airways allows two suitcases of 23kg. Only bring one. This will also make it easier to travel on trains to and from hotels and airports.
Baggage is not checked on the shinkansen, but staff constantly pass through the carriages to see if things are in order. Suitcase storage must be booked in advance. If you purchase tickets from a third party site, you will not be able to do this. Alternatively, baggage can be stored in the overhead compartments or, if necessary, between your legs (there is plenty of leg room.)
Mishima -
The best places to visit in Mishima are Mishima Taisha Shrine, the Mishima SkyWalk (which offers a spectacular view of Mount Fuji), and Yamanaka Castle. However, these locations are all far apart - to experience them would require a lot more than the two hour break that we had between our coach and the shinkansen (especially when weighed down by our suitcases.) We instead had lunch (where Tommy tried wasabi for the first time.)
Kyoto -
From 794 to 1868, Kyoto was the capital of Japan - 'Kyoto' means 'capital city'. There are over 1600 temples and 400 shrines in Kyoto - we hardly scratched the surface in our visit.
I was surprised by the modernity of Kyoto. I had read that it is the best place to experience traditional, "real" Japan. However, it was like the other cities (Tokyo, Osaka, and Yokohama) in its high-rises amalgamated with the ancient temples. Of course, this makes sense - time has passed; Kyoto has moved with it - but I was (wrongly) expecting something more feudal.
Nevertheless, the temples that we visited displayed these days gone and taught us about the relationships between the ancient shogunates. It was a history lesson mixed with meditation, mixed with adventure. This was Kyoto's power: if you moved from the beaten track or entered a temple (even if it was amidst a busy street) you were suddenly transported; the city faded away - it was quiet and rural. This differed to Tokyo, where temples were invaded by markets.
We spent four nights in Kyoto and there was still many things to do. We did not have time for the main temples, Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion) and Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion.) Things, sadly, have to be sacrificed when managing a big tour in a limited timeframe.
Day Eight - 2nd July (21/07/2024)
Toji Temple -
A UNESCO world heritage site and must visit temple in Kyoto. It was only a fifteen minutes walk from where we stayed. The five storey pagoda is the tallest in Japan at fifty-seven metres. Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, was the head priest of Toji when it was founded in the late 700s. The Kodo Hall houses nineteen statues imported from China by Daishi to represent the buddha and his guardians, important to the religion. Photographs of the statues were prohibited, but take my word that they are worth seeing. The temple is silent and instantly demands your respect.
It costs 500yen (£2.50) to enter.
Umekoji Park -
Another fifteen minute walk and you will arrive at Umekoji Park, a large green space home to Kyoto Aquarium and Kyoto Railway Museum. Pressed for time, we could only visit one: we chose the Railway Museum.
With similarities to York Railway Museum (the city of my university, and which I have visited several times, and which houses a shinkansen), Kyoto Railway Museum tells the history of Japan's railway. As someone who is fascinated with modern Japanese history (particularly, Meiji to post-WWII), I was engrossed: for the tale of the trains can appeal to non-train enthusiasts in that it is about politics, war, and economics. It gave me more insight into the industrialisation of the Meiji era, which serves as the backstory for Tenshi and Hamata in The Falling Sun. It reassured me of their fascination with Western ideals, as the Meiji government hired European engineers to construct the railway, design trains, and build official properties.
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest -
A bamboo forest to the north-west of Kyoto. A fifteen minute walk from Saga-Arashiyama station, as you move from city to countryside seamlessly. Experience your own shinrin-yoku as the forest consumes you.
Ensure that you wear trainers and comfortable trousers, as the route is mostly uphill. You can also climb a mountain if you find the right path. I can't be anymore specific than that, as we stumbled upon the path by chance (I still don't know what mountain we climbed; there are several in the area.) If you do find the path, brace yourself for a sweaty but easy climb, and stunning views of Kyoto once you reach the summit.
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Me and Tommy on the unknown mountain
Just don't get lost like we did on the way back down.
We decided that rather than follow the path that we took on the way up, we'd turn right and see new things. We did see new things - a magnificent waterfall - but we also ended up heading the wrong direction. Of course, on a mountain, the signal is pretty rubbish, so Google Maps failed. A bit of compass work and then Google Maps coming to life, and we were saved.
It was this evening (returning to the train station) that Tommy discovered Seventeen Ice, a blue popsicle purchased from a vending machine, and which would come to replace kakigori as the go-to beverage (as he bought several more over the days.)
Day Nine - 3rd July (22/07/2024)
Today's plan was to visit the Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle, and then Nisshiki Market. However, due to our hunger and my underestimation of Nisshiki Market's size, we spent the entire day there.
Nisshiki Market -
Nisshiki Market is known as 'Kyoto's Kitchen' because of the hundreds of stalls and restaurants serving various locally produced food. The area began as a fish market in 1310 and has burgeoned since. You can try traditional dishes, like takoyaki (fried octopus balls), mochi (a sweet rice dumpling desert, filled with different flavoured creams), tenpura, or if you're more adventurous: seafood skewers (like octopus legs.)
Combined, me and Tommy tried prawn and vegetable tenpura, matcha flavour mochi, and croquettes (mine was matcha and chicken.)
Each stall is in competition with the next, and they entice you in with 100yen cups of sake.
(NOTE: if you don't like busy areas, approach Nisshiki Market with caution - I recommend, however, that you do give it a try; the streets widen once away from the western entrance.)
That is where we discovered that Nisshiki Market was larger than anticipated. The market has spilt into the Teramachi and Shin-Kyogoku Shopping Arcades, meaning that once you're full on fried goods, the holiday gift hunting can begin. Clothes, trinkets, arcades, department stores, kakigori, everything.
If you're into gaming, the Kyoto Nintendo store can be found nearby (but we didn't visit until the next day.) A ten minute walk down Kawaramachi Street will take you to a retro video game store, Surugaya, where you can purchase consoles and games for low prices (to make a profit when you return to England.) I bought a selection for my dad, who is an avid collector.
Overall, Nisshiki Market has something for everyone. Don't underestimate its scale - if you love shopping, you'll want to spend the day there.
Day Ten - 4th July (22/07/2024)
This day was dominated by walking.
We took the train to the Imperial Palace (as we'd missed it the day before), only to find that it was shut. Weirdly, there was no-one around. Many museums and businesses are closed on a Wednesday in Japan, but this was a Thursday. Consequently, we never got to see the Imperial Palace, just its walls. I'm not entirely sure why it was closed, as the website says that it should have been open...
Kyoto Imperial Palace was home to the Imperial Family until 1868, when they moved to Tokyo. The current palace was reconstructed in 1855, after burning down numerous times (that's a common theme at all the palaces and temples.)
Disappointed and baffled, we walked east and crossed Kamogawa River.
Heian-jingu Shrine -
Heian Shrine is one of the newest in Kyoto. It was constructed in 1895 to commemorate the 1100th anniversary of Kyoto as Japan's capital. It is dedicated to the first emperor, Emperor Kammu (737-806), and last emperor, Emperor Komei (1831-1867), to have ruled in Kyoto.
The gardens have a 600yen entrance fee but are beautiful. We were able to feed koi carp and terrapins. The koi carp is symbolic to Japanese culture. You can read about the ancient tale here.
This was a relaxing part to our tiring walk.
Toji Gate outside Heian Shrine
Kyoto Art Museum -
Another art museum. This time, Cubism.
Whether you hate or love Picasso, it was cool to see so many of his works in the flesh. You might leave with a revolutionised perspective. You might leave loathing it. But you will not know unless you go.
Don't ask me what this is, but you can find it in the Kyoto Art Museum Garden
Student Discounts -
I'll take this time to mention that many museums offer student discounts. Ensure that you have either your Student ID card or online alternative.
Gakusei is the word for student.
Ryugakusei is international student.
Evening -
Heading back west across Kamogawa River, we returned to Nisshiki Market and went to the Nintendo Store. It is located in Takashimaya department store.
As it was our last night, we searched for bars to have a drink and revisited Nisshiki Market, where the 100yen sake started us off. We later found a hotel that was doing happy hour. All drinks for 500yen - bliss!
Day Eleven - 5th July (23/07/2024)
Hopping from Kyoto to Osaka is a no-brainer. The two cities are only a twenty minute train ride from one-another. Try and book a hotel near Osaka or Shin-Osaka Station (the two major railway stations) as it will make it easier to travel across Japan's second biggest city.
Osaka -
Osaka is a large port city renowned for its street-food and nightlife - particularly in the Dotonbori area (more on this later.)
Osaka is home to Universal Studios Japan, but, in my opinion, I wouldn't get your hopes up - the park is aimed at young children and houses very few pulse-raising rides. We did not go because a) time constraints, and b) its disappointing scale. However, if you really are a theme park enthusiast, then it might still be worth a visit. You might also be interested in the Fuji-Q Highland near Mount Fuji.
Time for some history: before the Nara and Heian Period (710 - 1185; remember the Heian Shrine?), Osaka was called Naniwa. Back then, the capital city of Japan used to move with each new emperor. Naniwa is the earliest known capital of Japan.
Osaka Castle -
A reconstruction of the castle erected in the 16th century by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, who united Japan in 1591. Power-hungry after his success, Hideyoshi invaded Korea, with ambitions to capture the peninsula and China. After only a few weeks, his troops captured Seoul, the Korean capital, but they were eventually pushed back by an alliance of Korean and Chinese soldiers.
In 1598, his invasion failing, Hideyoshi died. His partner, Tokugawa Ieyasu, succeeded him, and he attacked Osaka Castle, killing the rest of the Toyotomi lineage and completing his ascent as ruler of Japan.
It all sounds quite cinematic, doesn't it?
In 1665, the castle was struck by lightning and burnt down. It would not be rebuilt until 1931.
You can learn more about this fascinating tale of betrayal and ambition at the castle museum (only 500yen to enter.)
PS: The view from the top of the castle is photogenic.
Day Twelve - 6th July (23/07/2024)
A day trip to Hiroshima is a must. But it is expensive.
The only way to get from Osaka to Hiroshima (and back) in a day is via the shinkansen. A coach ride there and back can be seven hours. A shinkansen is ninety minutes either way (three hours), giving you plenty of time to explore without the worry of how to get back. This, as I said, is pricey. Each ticket is around £60, so that's £120 for a round-trip. This makes it the most expensive part of the journey (obviously other than the flights from the UK.)
If you're budgeting is good - go!
Just remember to collect your prepaid tickets from a blue ticket machine - otherwise, you'll have a mad panic and nearly miss the train (as we did.)
Atomic Bomb Dome -
Getting off the tram, I cross the road, pass a few trees, and then the sight of it hits me. Amongst the banal, bustling, modern city, standing apart from the high-rises and shimmering glass, there is the decrepit masonry of the Atomic Bomb Dome. A chilling spectacle. A thing from another world.
On the 6th August 1945, the United States dropped the first atomic bomb on the port city of Hiroshima. 80,000 people were killed, and the city was flattened. Next year will be the 80th anniversary of this tragedy; Hiroshima still remembers.
The Atomic Bomb Dome is the last surviving building from the explosion and serves as a constant reminder of the devastation. A symbol of peace, calling for global nuclear disarmament.
Peace Memorial Park -
Before the bomb, the area that is now the Peace Memorial Park was the commercial heart of the city. Post-war, the city decided not to rebuild but to dedicate the area to remembering the bomb. This was a unique decision amongst the population, for Nagasaki, the other city to be bombed, has no reminders. They wanted to forget.
The park houses a cenotaph for the victims, as well as one dedicated to the children lost in the blast. A water feature helps to invoke deep contemplation, and the sheer scale and tranquility of the park emphasises the loss.
Peace Memorial Museum -
A must visit.
This museum tells first-person accounts of the atomic bombing and displays artefacts salvaged from the wreckage. An audio-guide can be purchased, narrating the harrowing stories. (NOTE: this is a disconsolate and distressing place; attend with caution.)
There is also a section calling for global nuclear disarmament.
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Hall -
A hall remembering all 80,000 lives lost. An archive allows you to search for individuals and learn their story.
The Falling Sun -
Both a metaphor for the failed dreams of the immigrants who travelled from the Rising Sun to the Land of Opportunity, and an allusion to the atomic bomb. The shadow of such destruction, as well as the incarceration of Japanese Americans, which, unbeknownst to them, eclipsed their futures.
The Land of the Falling Sun -
An in-the-works sequel following the Yamamoto family into the incarceration camp. The Land of the Falling Sun is the United States, a place (at this time) of failed dreams, a place devoid of hope.
Vita, Akira's sister, is stationed in Osaka as part of General MacArthur's occupation team following Japan's surrender in World War Two. She visits Hiroshima and is stunned. She dedicates her life to helping to rebuild the nation.
Evening -
After a rushed dinner (where we nearly missed the shinkansen again - after being served the slowest paella in history), we returned to Osaka with an evening of drinking in mind. At a restaurant, my incompetence with chopsticks was noted by the man sitting next to me. A conversation sparked, and we discovered that he was on holiday from China and was training to be a doctor. We spent the time discussing the differences between China and the UK (treading carefully when politics was mentioned.) The culture class was an illuminating experience.
A lovely man who even paid for our drinks.
Day Thirteen - 7th July (24/07/2024)
Our final day of excursions.
Dotonbori -
Known as Osaka's Times Square, the Dotonbori region is home to shops, bars, nightclubs, and restaurants. It is the heart of partying in Osaka.
The area is best investigated in the evening, when the neon billboards pierce the night, but we visited in the afternoon. I unfortunately became ill and so we had to leave early. We managed to experience the bustling charm, but I am convinced that we would have gotten more out of our visit had it been earlier in our adventures - we were pretty exhausted by this time.
This is a good time to discuss travel fatigue.
Travel Fatigue -
What is it? The eventual decline in your energy due to travelling. This is especially aggravated when hopping to a new place every few days, as well as cramming in as many activities as possible. Jet-lag and the heat contributes to it.
How to better manage your health? Schedule breaks or rest days. Often, me and Tommy would sit and have an iced coffee or matcha to escape from the sun and slow-down. Japan has many gardens, and the meditative qualities of shinrin-yoku help you to relax.
We perhaps could have gone onestep further and interspersed our days of excursion with "lazy" days - ie: resting in or near the hotel and catching up on sleep. But when you only have two weeks, there is a rush to do as much as possible.
Ensure that you eat and drink. If in an emergency, there are vending machines everywhere. A bottle of water will cost 100yen (50p.)
Make sacrifices. Sometimes you can't do everything that you want. That's okay. You can always come back. Just ensure that you appreciate the moments you do experience and don't let the absent haunt you. Stop and smell the roses, as they say.
Our premature exit from the Dotonbori was a culmination of these factors finally taking their toll on me - or perhaps my body was revolting because it knew a trip back to boring England and work was on the horizon.
Dinner at the Dotonbori -
Before this, we had probably our best meal. The food, the price, the experience.
Without realising, Tommy and I stumbled into a rather unique restaurant, Bikkuri Donkey Dotonbori. It's near the Kani Doraku Dotonbori restaurant (which can't be missed, as it has a giant animatronic crab above its door.) This restaurant was brilliant because not only were the portions generous (with extra large options available if you were starving), but we had a pleasant surprise.
Cue jingling music and hushed voices, as heads turned and phones sprung from pockets to film the approaching meal. That was weird. Had the vegetables been arranged by Picasso?
Then, in turn, our head bobbing to the cheerful tune turned to fascination, excitement, as the waiter appeared. Only, it wasn't an ordinary waiter...
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'A robot served us...'
A robot served us!
Here's a video.
If that didn't put a smile on your face then I don't know what will.
Day Fourteen - 8th July (24/07/2024)
Osaka to Tokyo (Haneda) -
With five-hundred kilometres to travel and a flight at 13:00 to catch, the cheapest and easiest way to get back to Tokyo Haneda Airport is to fly. A domestic flight from Osaka Itami to Haneda takes less than an hour, costs around £50, and you don't have to worry about transferring your bags (just pick them up when you arrive back in the UK.) This international transfer flight is served by Japan AirLines. I used SkyScanner to find cheap flights.
Once again, Japanese etiquette goes above and beyond. Passing through the airport was a breeze (although, it was 7:00am) and on the plane, despite the short flight time, you have on-flight entertainment. I didn't get that when I went to Italy.
Farewell Japan -
As with all holidays, there is hardly time to say goodbye. The rush to the coach to get to the airport, the angst of waiting because there is - undoubtedly - a delay, they come to mar your recollections. You're sad to go, but you also yearn for the comfort of your own bed. You feel guilty and try to reminisce, but this makes you sad because you know what's awaiting you at home, bills, chores, rain - but then you're off and away. The land fades as you rise above the clouds. You wave goodbye. But that's never satisfactory, is it?
Then, upon touchdown, you're slapped in the face by the queues, noise, littered streets, and ridiculous politics of the UK. You drive home, snuggle into bed or switch on the tv, and you wonder whether the holiday really happened at all. It's a bittersweet experience.
But Japan. Japan stays with you.
A deep appreciation of its rich culture, stunning landscapes, and warm hospitality is exacerbated by the banality of the instant coffee you drink upon arrival. You never noticed it before, but Japan - through its high standards and esteemed etiquette - has made you realise the inadequacy of life before your travel, of the UK. It's flawed, it's inferior, it's embarrassing, but it's our Home.
You come to appreciate both where you were and where you've been.
Tokyo's bright chaos,
Kyoto's calm, ancient paths,
Fuji's peak stands tall.
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What is the best time to visit Sarajevo?The best time to visit Sarajevo is during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November) when the weather is mild and pleasant. Winter (December to February) is great for skiing in nearby mountains, while summer (July to August) is warm but can be crowded.
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What language is spoken in Sarajevo?The official languages are Bosnian, Croatian, and Serbian. English is spoken but not by everyone - however, we managed to get by with zero knowledge of the local languages.
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How do I get around Sarajevo?Sarajevo has a reliable public transportation system, including trams, buses, and taxis. You can also rent bikes or use car hire services for more flexibility. Walking is also a great way to explore the city’s charming streets - we mostly walked, except to get to the airport. Remember, there are no trains in the Balkans!
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Is Sarajevo safe for tourists?Sarajevo is generally considered safe for tourists, with low crime rates. As with any destination, exercise standard precautions, especially in crowded areas or when handling valuables.
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What are the must-see attractions in Sarajevo?Some must-see places include the Baščaršija (old bazaar), Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, Vrelo Bosne, Sarajevo Tunnel Museum, and the Olympic Bobsleigh and Luge Track. Don’t miss out on the beautiful views from the Yellow Fortress.
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What is the local food like in Sarajevo?Sarajevo is famous for its delicious food, such as ćevapi (grilled minced meat), burek (pastry filled with meat or cheese), and sarma (stuffed cabbage rolls).
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Are there any cultural customs or etiquette I should know?Bosnians are known for their hospitality, so it's common to be offered food and drink, especially coffee. If you're invited into someone's home, it’s polite to accept. Dress modestly when visiting religious sites, and always greet people with a friendly “Dobar dan” (Good day).
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Is Bosnia expensive to visit?No. The Bosnian Convertible Mark is at a 2:1 with the GBP, meaning that everything is reasonably priced. Don't believe the newspapers though who say that one can get a pint for a £1, we didn't experience this.
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